The Shortlist (2023 edition)

 

What are some of the Montreal restaurants, bars, boucheries, boulangeries, cheese shops, and specialty stores that AEB actually frequents?  What are the places that have sustained us through a couple of difficult years?  Here’s a shortlist…

Aliments Viens, 4556B boulevard St-Laurent (Mile End), 514-379-4666—The city’s best source for artisanal charcuterie—and especially mortadella!—also happens to be a very fine butcher shop and specialty foods store.  Their selection of beef, pork, chicken, and veal is well-sourced and expertly butchered.  Their exceptional charcuterie counter (cold cuts, sausages, saucissons secs, pâtés, etc.) is always tantalizing.  And they also sell an excellent selection of conservas, pastas, eggs, cheeses, prepared dishes, and other delicacies.

Bar Henrietta, 115 avenue Laurier W. (Mile End), (514) 276-4282—Chef Eric Dupuis created this beautiful Mile End bar a number of years ago. It’s been a fixture of the neighbourhood ever since. Great wine selection. Lovely cocktails. And a short, but thoughtful, and perfectly executed menu of bar snacks and small plates.

Boulangerie Automne, 6500 avenue Christophe-Colomb (Petite Patrie)—If there’s a better bakery for bread and viennoiseries in Montreal, we don’t know of it.  Our go-to bakery for breads that I don’t bake at home, like baguettes, as well as chocolatines, pains aux raisins, danishes, buns, and other gourmandises.  Truly outstanding, and now working closely with the amazing people at Moulin de Charlevoix to source much of their flour (!).

Caffè in Gamba, 5263 ave du Parc (Mile End), 514-656-6852—For a couple of years now, my café of choice.  Features an extensive selection of third wave coffee beans from across North America, and a top-notch espresso program with some talented (and award-winning) baristas.  Plus, they renovated during the pandemic, and they’ve got a bright, light-hued new look—very L.A., actually—perfect for the New Age.

Camellia Sinensis, 351 rue Émery (Latin Quarter) & 7010 rue Casgrain (Little Italy/Jean-Talon Market)—Not only the best tea shop in Montreal, but one of the very best in North America.  Extremely knowledgeable and well-travelled staff.  Truly magnificent selection of teas from India, Japan, China, Taiwan, and beyond.

Chez Nino, 192 Place du Marché-du-Nord (Little Italy/Jean-Talon Market), 514-277-8902—One of the finest green grocers in Montreal, and an excellent source for rare and hard-to-find products like Buddha’s Hand citron and Rosa di Gorizia radicchio.

Chez Vito, 5180 rue St-Urbain (Mile End), 514-277-1981—A Mile End fixture for decades, and deservedly so.  In addition to their wide selection of meats, cold cuts, and cheeses, they also happen to be an excellent source for Italian specialty food products, including pastas, olive oils, preserves of all kinds, and seasonal delicacies (like imported panettone).

Double’s, 5171 avenue du Parc (Mile End)—Looks like a dive bar. Feels like a dive bar. Acts like a dive bar. But it also happens to be a cheerful, dive-y restaurant that’s overseen by Executive Chef Danny Smiles. The place in Mile End for a smashburger and a martini. Open LATE.

Elena, 5090 rue Notre-Dame Ouest (St-Henri), 514-379-4883—Despite its long history in our fair city, pizza was a sorry affair in Montreal until God Created Elena, and their wood-fired, perfectly blistered, slow-fermented sourdough pies put an end to this travesty once and for all.  Since then, the pizza situation across the city has improved, but it still lags behind other world-class cities. II’ve never been disappointed by Elena’s pies, however—they’re exactly the kind of pizzas I want to be eating regularly, exactly the kind of pizzas that people who live in true pizza towns are spoiled with.  Recent faves:  rossa with stracciatella; margherita; M. Funguy (with loads of mushrooms); artichoke and ham..  And although Elena is best known for its pizza, everything they do, they do well, including top-notch pasta dishes, overstuffed hoagies, a killer wine selection, coffee, and desserts.  They also have one of the very nicest dining rooms in the city, IMHO. And ever since dining rooms became meaningful again, circa 2021, that’s been a great thing.

Épices de cru, 7070 avenue Henri-Julien, C-6 (Little Italy/Jean-Talon Market), 514-273-1118—No other spice shop in the city compares, and, frankly, Épices de cru is one of the finest and most ambitious spice shops in all of North America.  Ethné & Philippe de Vienne have spent decades tracking down the most exceptional spices and herbs around the world in-person.  Their sourcing and their ability to forge contacts are legendary.  Consequently, their selection is spectacular and always of the highest quality.  A treasure.

Etna Pastaficio,, 244 rue Jarry E. (Villeray/Jarry Park), (438) 408-6030—Etna started off as a restaurant and wine bar, but during the pandemic they made a brilliant pivot: they became a pastaficio, an artisanal pasta shop specializing in top-notch, freshly produced stuffed and extruded pastas, as well as wine. Having adapted, they were now better suited to face the public health restrictions and to satisfy a public that was hungry for quality take-out options and well-curated boîte-à-vins. Even better is what’s become of Etna in recent times: from noon to 2:00 pm, five days a week, they offer lunch specials right there in their shop. Wines, many of them natural and biodynamic, are available by the bottle and by the glass. I can’t think of a place I’d rather go for lunch.

Euro-Deli Batory,, 115 rue Saint-Viateur W. (Mile End), (514) 948-2161—Hands down the restaurant we’ve frequented the most in the 25 years since we moved to Montreal (or moved back, as the case may be). Does that mean that Euro-Deli Batory is our favourite restaurant in the city? It’s quite possible. The thing is I only ever order the same handful of things (potato-cheese pierogis, cabbage-mushroom pierogis, clear borscht (winter), cold borscht (summer), kielbasa, and occasionally their multi-decker kanapka (sandwich). We recommend visiting Batory Thursday through Sunday, when their pierogis taste particularly fresh, particularly ethereal. Oh, by the way: apparently some TikTok about Batory went viral in recent months. Ever since, it’s been very busy. This makes us happy. I’m not sure what we’d do without Batory.

Fairmount Bagel, 74 rue Fairmount Ouest (Mile End), (514) 272-0667—In our honest opinion, the definitive Montreal bagel. Don’t get distracted by the silly novelty flavours. Just stick to the classics: sesame, poppy, and everything. If you have any doubts, just order sesame—they are always hot, 24/7/365. There are few pleasures as elemental as biting into a fresh, hot Fairmount sesame bagel just outside the store on a bracingly cold winter day, the steam billowing into the air, the purity and simplicity of that tender, chewy, and slightly sweet flavour—no cream cheese, no smoked salmon necessary!—reaffirming life once again.

Falafel Yoni, 54 rue St-Viateur Ouest (Mile End), 514-424-7767—Montreal used to be a pretty decent falafel town, and then it really wasn’t one for a long, long time.  Thankfully, everything changed a few years ago when Falafel Yoni came along.  Yoni’s falafel game was fantastically strong from the day they opened, but it’s actually gotten even stronger over the years.  The quality is always “top shelf,” and the combination of ingredients that goes into their falafel sandwich is ideal (sauces, salads), especially if you get yours prepared “extra-spicy” (with additional zhug).  Falafel Yoni is easily one of the Montreal restaurants I’ve frequented the most over the last few years, and I always look forward to doing so.  In addition to the falafel sandwich, I recommend the house-made hummus, lemonina, and fries, while Michelle is a big fan of the sabich sandwich (chopped egg, roasted eggplant, etc.).

Fromagerie Hamel, 220 rue Jean-Talon Est (Little Italy/Jean-Talon Market), 514-272-1161—The fromagerie with the city’s largest selection of cheeses also happens to be its best.  

Jean-Talon Market (Little Italy/Jean-Talon)—One of Montreal’s two great green markets, and the one we frequent the most.  Home to a number of places on this shortlist:  Chez Nino, Épices de cru, Fromagerie Hamel, and Camellia Sinensis.

Ma Poule Mouillée, 969 rue Rachel Est (Plateau), (514) 522-5175—Our pursuit of the ultimate Montreal grilled chicken à la portuguaise keeps pushing us east all along the same axis (rue Rachel). First it was Portugalia. Then it was Romados. And now, for the last several years, it’s been the saucily named Ma Poule Mouillée. Their grilled chicken options (quarter, half, whole, or sandwich) are all fantastic, as is their grilled chouriço and grilled squid, but the true revelation might be their Portuguese poutine: fries, sauce, grilled chicken, grilled chouriço, Sao Jorge cheese, and piri-piri sauce. They invented it. They own it. Life in Montreal has never been the same since.

Milano, 6862 boulevard St-Laurent (Little Italy), 514-273-8558—Montreal’s Italian specialty foods emporium.  Essential shopping for Italophiles like ourselves.

Mr. Patty, 5312 avenue Patricia (Montreal West), 514-483-2323—The city’s finest Jamaican bakery, specializing, as their name suggests, in patties.  The veggie and chicken varieties are both excellent, but it’s the beef patty, with its oxtail unctuousness, that is the runaway hit.  Buy them by the dozen!   Exceptional rotis, too.

Pascal le boucher, 8113 rue St-Denis (Villeray), 438-387-6030—This is the full-service, responsibly sourced, and artfully prepared butcher shop Montreal had been waiting for. Attentive, knowledgeable service, and a fantastic selection of the best meat and eggs produced in the region.

Pâtisserie Rhubarbe, 1479 avenue Laurier Est (Laurier Village), 514-316-2935—Stephanie Labelle’s boutique has been a fixture on Laurier East now for over a decade, and while her store has been one of the city’s finest pâtisseries since the day they opened, Rhubarbe keeps getting finer and finer.  Brilliant pastries, outstanding cakes, excellent prepared foods and preserves, and a truly beautiful shop.  What more could you ask for in a pâtisserie?

Piazza Salumi, 6833 boulevard St-Laurent (Little Italy), 514-276-6833—Kind of a mini-Milano, directly across the street from the mega-Milano, generally a lot quieter, and featuring Fumagalli’s exceptional line of imported Italian charcuterie.

Pumpui, 83 rue St-Zotique Est (Little Italy), 514-379-3024—Pumpui specializes in the David Thompson/Pok-Pok/Night + Market school of street/night market Thai food, and we wouldn’t have it any other way. Honest, unabashedly spicy & funky, and often adventurous, Pumpui upended the Thai food scene in Montreal. Don’t be afraid to explore the menu fully—who knows what surprises you’ll find—but don’t forget to order some of their phenomenal chicken wings.

Sabor Latino, 4387 boulevard St-Laurent (Plateau), 514-848-1078—Along with Andes, this is Montreal’s premier source for all things Latin American—Mexican, Central American, South American, and Caribbean. They also have a store up in the Plaza St-Hubert area, but this store, occupying the old Sakaris site on St-Laurent, is our local and we go there all the time. Grocery store, green grocer, butcher, bakery, and restaurant, Sabor Latino has it all. Plus, the service is always friendly and the music (cumbia, rebajada, son, etc.) is always great.

Supermarché PA, 5242 avenue du Parc (Mile End), 514-274-8782—A pillar of the Mile End food scene for decades now.  Quality, selection, and prices are always impressive.

Supermarché PA Nature, 5029 avenue de Parc (Mile End), 514-271-8788—PA’s organic and natural foods division, occupying the former location of the original Supermarché PA.  Similarly impressive.

Tinc Set, 1233 avenue Lajoie (Outremont), (514) 303-0315—Probably our favourite discovery of 2022, and one of our favourite restaurants of 2023. Exactly the kind of casual, friendly, wine-centric tapas bar we’ve always been hoping for in Montreal. Run by the people in charge of the upscale Alma next door, and sharing the same kitchen, Tinc Set occupies a former dépanneur and makes great use of its walk-in beer cooler. The menu is simple, but thoughtful: snacks and tapas (warm olives, pan con tomate, boquerones, patatas bravas, conservas, etc.), a rotating cast of accompanying dishes (a crudo preparation, a salad, a burrata plate, etc.), and two specialties of the house: a whole roast chicken à la barcelonaise and grilled octopus style pil pil. If all that wasn’t tempting enough, the bar is a showcase for Alma & Tinc Set’s wine importation business and it doubles as a bottle shop. An absolute joy of a restaurant.

Vin Mon Lapin, 150 rue St-Zotique Est (Little Italy), 514-379-4550—Talk about a power couple:    Marc-Olivier Frappier is one of the city’s most talented and creative chefs, and a long-time chef and chef de cuisine with the Joe Beef group; while Vanya Filipovic is one of the city’s most gifted sommeliers and a leading figure among its private wine importers (Les Vins Dame-Jeanne being her importation house).  Easily the most remarkable take-out meal of the pandemic that we experienced was a product of their 3rd anniversary festivities earlier this year: soupe aux huîtres à la Bocuse? Yes, please. Now, Vin Mon Lapin is back in action in their recently expanded and refurbished dining room, and the place has been bumping. It’s also back in full swing. Marc-O’s latest coup was a cheeky ode to the iconic grilled ham & cheese sandwich at Harry’s Bar in Venice, one where the ham & cheese had been replaced with scallops and mousseline that was totally hallucinant and such a joy to devour with a crisp rosato. Quite possibly our favourite Montreal restaurant at the moment.

Wilensky’s Light Lunch, 34 avenue Fairmount Ouest (Mile End), 514-271-0247—The one, the only, the original…the home of the Wilensky Special, a hot, pressed, sliced bologna number that happens to be one of Montreal’s few truly great sandwiches.  In business since 1932, Wilensky’s doubles as a museum of sorts, an artifact of Montreal’s former glory.  But don’t spend too much time admiring your surroundings, because service at Wilensky’s is brisk.  We recommend a Special with cheese (Kraft, of course), a soda fountain drink of your liking (we’re partial to their root beer and their egg creams), and a side of half-sour pickles.  Classic. And now they’re over 90 YEARS OLD! Amazing!

Wills (a.k.a. Wills.Beer), 6731 avenue de l’Esplanade (Parc Extension), (514) 708-1070—Ethan Wills and Annika Krausz, formerly part of the Lawrence team, together with Alex Wills (Ethan’s brother), have taken over both the former Alexandraplatz and the former Brasserie du Vieux Montréal complex that housed the vanguard Parc Extension bar/hang-out/festival site. They’ve put their own imprint on it and toned down the post-industrial vibe considerably—the look is simultaneously grandiose and human-scaled and approachable. Natural wines, a small but seductive selection of cocktails, and fine beers (including two at the moment from Greensboro, VT’s legendary Hill Farmstead) are issued from the updated horseshoe-shaped bar area, while the Winneburger truck from the team at Nouveau Palais is parked outside to satisfy your food cravings. One of the city’s hot spots since 2022.

Ribs to the Rescue

 
fig. a:  Thai-style ribs

fig. a: Thai-style ribs

fig. b:  Thai-style riblets (a.k.a., where the ice-cold beers at?)

fig. b: Thai-style riblets (a.k.a., where the ice-cold beers at?)

Four score and seven years ago

These are the times that try men’s souls

There comes a time in every nordique grill fanatic’s life

There comes a time every winter, usually around February or March, when—in the words of the late, great Charlie Feathers—I can’t hardly stand it.  

I’m crazy about grilling and smoking.  I love cooking over a live fire.  But my circumstances are such that doing so is pretty much impossible for several months of the year.  A big part of the reason why is just climate, but the deciding factor is definitely living situation.  Even if I wanted to brave the elements to do some winter grilling, my premises don’t allow it.  I’m sure I’m not the only one.  I’m sure there are plenty of you out there who understand my predicament and feel my pain.

In any case, come February or March (sometimes even earlier), the proverbial thrill of the grill really starts gnawing at me, and that’s usually around the time that I respond with one of my oven-roasted spare ribs recipes.  It’s never quite the same as smoking them over a live charcoal fire, of course, but buy some nice meaty racks, coat them with a tasty rub, slather them with a wicked BBQ sauce, roast them real slow & low, and serve them with a little BBQ dip, and those ribs are as close an approximation of the pleasures of the grill as I’m likely to find until The Thaw occurs.

This year when that urge hit me I came across a recipe in the New York Times for oven-roasted ribs that was rather different than the Southern-style ribs I usually make, and I found myself entranced by what I read.  The recipe was David Tanis’s riff on a Thai barbecued spare ribs recipe that first appeared in Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok cookbook back in 2013.  

When Tanis’s version was first published in the summer of 2017, it was introduced as a recipe that was perfect for a scorching summer day.  One of those days that’s so oppressively hot that you certainly don’t want to do a lot of cooking, and any cooking you end up doing needs to be easy.  In this case, the idea goes as follows: having picked up some racks from your butcher and gotten her to saw them in half lengthwise, you marinate your ribs for a couple of hours, pop them into a low-temperature oven, retreat to an air-conditioned room (or the coolest room you’ve got) with a  cold drink. Flip the ribs a couple of times (every 30 minutes or so), and an hour and a half later, your ribs are nearly done.  Raise the heat in the oven briefly, paint them with your sauce, and ten to fifteen minutes later you’ll be rewarded with gorgeously lacquered Thai-style spare ribs—utterly “irresistible finger food,” as Tanis puts it.

Well, it turns out this recipe is equally good in the wintertime.  In fact, it might even be better.  I don’t know about you, but when it’s really, really hot, I’m not sure I want the oven on for two hours at all, even if it’s set at a low temperature.  When it’s really, really hot usually all I want is salad, or conservas, or cold noodles.  But in the doldrums of winter, when I can’t wait to get back on the grill, but I know that possibility is still weeks away?  This recipe was truly phenomenal.  It also proved to be highly versatile.  I made sure to make plenty so that we’d have leftovers, and I ended up serving those leftovers a couple of different ways.  More on that later, but for the moment let me just add one last ironic detail to this story:  Tanis devised this as an oven-roasted recipe quite specifically because he didn’t want to grill outside—because it was too hot, and he’d already had a few occasions that summer where he’d decided to grill on a particularly hot summer day, only to regret it later.  Needless to say, this is not a problem we’re experiencing right now here in Montreal.

Beyond the fact that it lent itself to oven-roasting, Tanis was originally drawn to the recipe because of its simplicity and its lack of pretence, and because of Ricker’s stubborn insistence that his ribs should be cooked relatively quickly.  “Not falling-off-the-bone tender!”, Ricker emphasized.  As Tanis explains this approach is the preference in Thailand.  “Thai diners prefer ribs on the chewy side, with a little tasty, crunchy cartilage or gristle in the bargain.”  Among other things, this means these ribs are quicker and easier to prepare than recipes that are ultra-slow & low.

The only thing that takes a little extra forethought is the marination phase.  Following Ricker, Tanis recommends a minimum of two hours’ time for the ribs to get the benefits of their tantalizingly sweet and funky marinade.  If you can marinate the ribs longer—a few hours, or even overnight—they’ll be even better.

And it was with the marinade that Tanis took just a couple of liberties:  adding tamarind paste to offset the honey and up the funk factor, and a bit of extra chili to give the ribs a more pronounced kick.  Ricker’s original recipe is Chinese-influenced.  You’ll know what I’m talking about when you taste them.  Tanis’s alterations—minor thought they may be—may not be 100% authentic (there’s a reason his recipe is titled “Thai-Style Spare Ribs”)—but they have the effect of making the ribs even more savoury, even more intoxicating, and somehow even more “Southeast Asian.”

As Tanis points out, the resulting ribs are so lip-smackingly delicious that they don’t require an additional dipping sauce when you serve them.  But if you choose to whip one up—especially a spicy, garlicky Thai or Southeast Asian number—you won’t be disappointed.  Quite the opposite.

Thai-Style Spare Ribs

2 racks of baby back ribs, 3 to 4 pounds, halved lengthwise to make 3-inch ribs (ask your butcher to do this)

2 tsp kosher salt

3 tbsp honey

2 tbsp soy sauce

1 tbsp tamarind paste

1 tsp toasted sesame oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tbsp grated ginger

½ tsp crushed red pepper (preferably Thai)

½ tsp black pepper

¼ tsp cinnamon (preferably Vietnamese)

pinch of grated nutmeg

pinch of cayenne

2 tbsp Shaoxing cooking wine, mirin or sherry (I used mirin)

3 tbsp chopped garlic chives or scallions, for garnish

3 tbsp chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems, for garnish

Lay the ribs flat in a roasting pan, meaty side up. You will have 4 long pieces. Season lightly with salt on both sides.

Make the marinade: in a small bowl, combine honey, soy sauce, tamarind paste, sesame oil, garlic, ginger, red pepper, black pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg and cayenne. Add the wine and 1/4 cup hot water and whisk well.

Pour marinade over ribs to completely coat. Marinate at room temperature for 2 hours, turning once or twice, or cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight, making sure to turn the ribs at least once or twice.  (If you choose to marinate the ribs slowly in the refrigerator, just make sure to pull them out to temper them at least one hour (and preferably two) before roasting them.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 250º F. Transfer the roasting pan, uncovered, to the rack. Roast ribs for 1 1/2 hours, basting with pan juices and turning ribs over every 20 minutes or so. If pan juices seem to be drying out or burning, add a little water to the pan.

Pour juices from the roasting pan into a small saucepan. Spoon off fat from surface of sauce, then simmer sauce for a few minutes until slightly thickened, then use the juices to paint the ribs. 

Turn up oven the heat to 400º F. Return ribs to oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until nicely glazed.

Use a sharp knife to divide ribs, cutting between the bones. Pile ribs onto a platter, sprinkle with garlic chives and cilantro, and serve.


According to Ricker, “these ribs are often served in Thailand to accompany ice-cold beer,” as Tanis notes. Did you catch that? They’re a snack meant to accompany beer. The ice-cold beer is primary. The ribs are just an accompanying snack. Like salted peanuts. All I know is these ribs can be eaten as a snack or appetizer, and they are fantastic with especially cold beers.

fig. b:  bbq ribs & vermicelli noodles

fig. b: bbq ribs & vermicelli noodles

I also know that when I served some of my leftover ribs over vermicelli noodles, with pickles, cucumber slices, lettuce, herbs, and nuoc cham, like some kind of Viet-style/Thai-style mash-up, it was exhilarating—easily the very best vermicelli noodle dish of its kind that we’ve ever made at home.

fig. c:  chopped rib sandwich

fig. c: chopped rib sandwich

And when I slathered a freshly-split baguette from our friends at Boulangerie Automne with parfait de volaille from our friends at Vin Mon Lapin, and then layered it with chopped BBQ rib meat, daikon and carrot pickles, lettuce, herbs (cilantro and mint), and a schmear of mayonnaise, it was the very best sandwich I’ve had in months—maybe years.

fig. d:  anatomy of a chopped rib sandwich

fig. d: anatomy of a chopped rib sandwich

So, yeah, enjoy these Thai-Style Ribs as a snack, with those ice-cold beers—by all means!—but don’t overlook their versatility.




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